You can get a downloadable map of this itinerary here.

**Written by New York local, Christine. Christine is a born-and-raised Houston native who spent her first 24 years there until she packed her bags for Philadelphia to attend law school. After graduating, she extended her stay on the East Coast to work in New York City, but she’ll always be in a Texas State of Mind and will never give up on finding good tacos and barbecue away from home. 

Whether you’re a New York native or just in town for the weekend, nothing is as MAGICAL as CHRISTMASTIME in the city. The air practically hums with excitement and you find that a city of lights can shine even brighter. You hear Christmas music when you step into Duane Reade. To get to Duane Reade, you walk through streets lined with Christmas trees for sale, like you’re walking through a teeny tiny Christmas tree forest. 

This is a long way of saying: BEST TIME TO TRAVEL – December. Obviously. Christmas.

WHERE TO STAY*: My favorite hotel in the city is the Bowery Hotel. If you see a big old-fashioned analog clock hanging from the awning and someone in uniform waiting to open the door (with an umbrella if it’s raining), you’ll know you’re in the right place. As soon as you walk in, you’ll be transported back to old New York. (I’ve always been nostalgic for a time I wasn’t around for.) Behind the concierge desk, you’ll see a wall with little boxes for each hotel room key, where a deep red heavy tassel with a brass key hangs (with an electronic key fob attached behind that, because it’s still the 21st century). Even if you aren’t staying here, stop by for a drink downstairs in their cozy seating area. I LOVE The Bowery because it really puts careful thought into EVERY LITTLE DETAIL and goes out of its way to highlight local New York businesses. The fluffy white robes are embroidered in red by Lingua Franca, whose little shop is in West Village on Bleecker St. and on the Upper East Side on Madison Ave where you can get embroidered knits — a great holiday gift for that family member who loves to be cozy (and you can get them personalized!). If you’d like, they’ll bring you the New York Times in an embroidered tote on your door handle, which you’ll find hanging on your door in the morning. Every little detail is intentional, which I love. 

A slightly more affordable option is the Ludlow Hotel in the Lower East Side. From the same hotel group as Bowery, Ludlow feels like the edgier younger sibling. It’s a little more modern, brighter, but still has a nostalgic yet timeless feel. Definitely book in advance for either, because they will fill up quickly. Rates are also likely very high during the holiday season. 

*I want to note that most of my recommendations in this post are in downtown New York, with the exception of the Christmas activities, which are generally located more midtown/upper east. This means that staying further downtown will leave you farther from some of the holiday festivities you might want to take part in. If that’s your focus for the whole weekend (this is the Christmas guide after all), I would recommend staying closer in the Nomad or Chelsea area (I wouldn’t recommend staying in midtown/Times Square, unless you don’t mind a lot of noise and congestion). Innside Hotel on West 27th St. is a solid choice. (Don’t eat at the restaurant unless you’re in a pinch, which you might be if you don’t make reservations in advance for any of your meals.) Their drinks, however, are STRONG.

friday.

Once you’ve landed, drop off your bags and head back out for a coffee. A marathon of Christmas activities REQUIRES caffeine. I have recommendations by neighborhood, because you should never be more than a few blocks from a very good cup of whatever you need to power yourself through the day. 

Chelsea: There are multiple, because Chelsea happens to be the neighborhood where I most often caffeinate. Variety at the corner of 25th and 7th is my go-to (which is looking festive and cozy for the holidays), but I also love Seven Grams just half a block north. When I happen to be closer to Union Square, I really like Gotham Coffee. If you need a snack for your drink, Variety and Seven Grams both have decent baked goods. As an added bonus to Gotham Coffee, across the street is Dough Doughnuts, which is a personal favorite spot. They are yeasted, pillowy soft donuts that come in a lot of really exciting flavors. You can never go wrong with classic glazed or cinnamon sprinkles, but if something calls to you, try it. Odds are, it’s very very good. I also like Yanni’s coffee — which is further south and closer to Greenwich Village. Their coffee is definitely strong, and they have Balthazar’s baked goods and croissants, which is a HUGE plus in my book. 

If you don’t need coffee but could use a dirty bacon-egg-and-cheese, my favorite is the BEC on a croissant at the Donut Pub, which is at the northwest corner of 14th and 7th. It’s open 24 hours and has been around a million years (1960s) and all of their donuts are good. They also serve cronuts if you don’t feel like waiting in line at Dominique Ansel’s. You can sit at the counter in old-fashioned stools if you need a break from all the walking.

West Village: I LOVE Cafe Kitsune. You may be familiar with the fashion brand Maison Kitsune — this is their cafe. I think they have one location in Paris and one right in WV. Their coffee drinks, matcha and tea drinks are all great. If you have had enough caffeine but just want to warm up, I love their yuzu and honey tea. It’s a tea Koreans love to drink and you can buy huge bottles of it at H-Mart for nothing, but sometimes I choose to pay $6 for one instead. Their baked goods and bites are also great if you’re in need of a snack.

Soho: Felix Roasting Co. Their seating is usually pretty full, and you’ll understand why when you walk in. Think plush green velvet couches and pink velvet poofs, warm chandeliers, and little tables and oil paintings that remind you of Paris. Their matcha is also nice.

If you find yourself in Nolita, swing by Cafe Leon Dore. You order from the street at a window, and you’ll love the white and blue cups that remind you of Greece, as well as the little Greek cookies they sell. They also have croissants and other baked goods. The best dressed/most eclectic group of people you’ve ever seen will likely be sitting outside on the street looking moody with their espressos and cigarettes. Once you’re caffeinated, if you’re also looking for something to add to your closet, walk past the smokers and step into the store the cafe is attached to — Aimé Leon Dore. They’re a Queens-based brand and is constantly putting out new designs and collaborations where every piece is a celebration of its heritage.

East Village: MUD coffee. It’s supposedly Timothee Chalamet’s favorite, so, enough said.

I recommend going to see the Rockettes perform in the evening at Radio City Music Hall to really put you in the holiday spirit for the weekend. It might sound a little touristy, but it really is a PHENOMENAL experience. You’ll leave wishing you were 5’8”. Depending on when you land, you may have a little time to browse around the various Christmas markets around the city before the show, though remember to get to the show 30 minutes early – with bathroom lines, you’ll be glad you did. Since you’re heading uptown for the show anyway, you can make a pit stop to walk through the stalls at Bryant Park’s Winter Village for belgian waffles, German hot chocolate, apple cider, melty Raclette cheese, ornaments and local vendors where you may actually find the perfect holiday gift for that certain someone who doesn’t want another iPad this Christmas. If you’d like, you can ice skate here, or save the ice skating for Rockefeller. Be sure to purchase tickets online in advance for both. 

After the show, walk north on 5th Avenue and stop at Rockefeller to see the 70+ foot Christmas tree, then swing around to see the Saks Fifth Avenue light show. Once the show is over, keep making your way north on 5th to see the elaborate holiday window displays at Saks and Bergdorf’s. Maybe grab a bag of hot nuts to eat and to keep your hands warm. Next, stop by the Plaza Hotel for a drink. Touristy, perhaps. But you’re in New York, and it’s the Plaza, so, why not.

Like many of the Christmas activities on this list, this next spot is both touristy and a New York icon: Serendipity III. You might know it from the movie, you might know it because Jackie O. and Warhol loved it, or maybe even because of the famed vintage Tiffany lamps hanging from the ceiling on the first floor. Whichever it is, go for their frozen hot chocolate. You might wonder if it’s just a chocolate milkshake – it’s not. If you’re hungry, they also have a great selection of diner-type food including burgers and truffle fries. You will definitely have dreams of sugar plum fairies and more.

saturday.

Start your day with an early-ish brunch around 9 or 9:30 (in my book, anything before 4 pm is brunch). Some recommendations are Upland, Shoo Shoo, Sadelle’s, any of the Boucheries, Jack’s Wife Frieda, La Bonbonniere (if a local diner is more your vibe, and then you can stop by Casa Magazines after, the ICONIC “good magazine” store in West Village. Bring cash for both.)

If you want to see the (in?)famous Rolf’s, a German restaurant that keeps incredible Christmas decorations up all year, I would recommend lining up before the bar opens at noon, maybe around 11:30 or earlier. Reservations must be made well in advance, so you’ll likely have to wait in line to get a spot at the bar. If you don’t need to see it, Oscar Wilde’s is a fun choice, also with CRAZY Christmas decorations everywhere. Be sure to get a picture with the (fake, I hope) taxidermy polar bear at the entrance standing by a bronze statue of the bar’s namesake, Oscar Wilde himself. I’d recommend trying something from their menu of gin and tonics inspired by British musicians. I LOVE their “How Soon is Now” by The Smiths. (You could also visit Oscar Wilde later in the day, and maybe also see if there’s any seating at the speakeasy next door, Patent Pending.)

Next, head to Union Square’s holiday market. You’ll be able to get more coffee, hot chocolate, apple cider, Italian donuts, and other food while walking around. Similar to the Bryant Park village, there are local vendors selling food and specialty gifts. Don’t forget to try the giant gingerbread cookie! I have my eye on a local business selling old books that they turn into clocks. If you have book lovers you need gifts for, I would walk down the street to the Strand – or as I lovingly think of it, BOOK HEAVEN. Not only are there 18 miles of books, but there are also mugs, pins, sweatshirts, totes, socks: this place is perfect for finding thoughtful holiday gifts.

For dinner, I recommend the Waverly Inn, which is the COZIEST spot in the winter with their fireplaces and Christmas decorations and wreaths. Alternatively, Raku for a hot bowl of noodles, Hanoi House for pho and vietnamese and Somtum Der or Pure Thai for Thai are also good choices. If you’re in need of a slice or pie, I like Rubirosa, Roberta’s, Prince St., Joe’s (on Carmine), Joe and Pat’s, and John’s (of Bleecker St). Honestly, I can’t make these names up, but are you really surprised.

sunday.

Maybe sleep in and have a late brunch because you’ve had a marathon of a weekend. If you need a bagel, I’d say just choose one that pops up as being close to you, but Brooklyn Bagel on 8th, Tomkins Square Bagels and Ess-a-Bagel are good options (Brooklyn and Tomkins have gluten free bagels). After brunch, head uptown to ice skate at Rockefeller Center. Again, it sounds touristy, but I just went for my birthday this year and felt as giddy as Buddy the Elf. After a really long year, it was nice to take an hour to feel like a kid at Christmastime. And there’s nothing quite like spending 99% of your efforts on not falling on your butt while the remaining 1% takes in being so close to that sparkly 70+ foot tree. 

After ice skating, trade your skates for your walking shoes again and window shop around the area, maybe poke your head in and out of a few stores and get some holiday shopping done for friends (or yourself). You can also lean into feeling like a kid and stop by FAO Schwarz. You have nieces and nephews to buy toys for, right?

If you’ve had enough of 5th Ave. and have time for the trek, head out to Dyker Heights Christmas Lights in Brooklyn. There are crazy light displays from 11th to 13th Avenues (also known as Dyker Heights Blvd) from 83rd to 86th St in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn – hence, Dyker Heights Christmas Lights. I’d suggest going after it’s dark and by foot. To get there, taking the subway would be less expensive, but rideshare/cab would be quickest.

Although you’re so far from Williamsburg, while you’re out in Brooklyn, you could head to Birds of a Feather for what I think is the BEST Sichuan food in the city. My favorites are the Chungking Spicy Chicken, the Sichuan Cold Noodles, and the Seared Baby Cucumbers for some crunch. I also throw in an order of their Scallion Pancakes if I’m craving it. Sweetwater is also a solid spot.

If you could use a drink and some pasta, head back downtown to the BEAUTIFULLY (and, for Christmas/winter, festively) decorated restaurant on Eataly’s rooftop, Serra by Birreria. When in Rome, after all.

After dinner, get on Airbnb to find another place to stay because why would you ever leave before New Year’s Eve?