CHRISTINE’S GUIDE: HOUSTON

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You can get a downloadable map of this itinerary here.

**Christine is a born-and-raised Houston native who spent her first 24 years there until she packed her bags for Philadelphia to attend Penn Law. A soon-to-be graduate, she’s extending her stay on the east coast to work in New York City, but she’ll always be in a Texas state of mind and will never give up on finding good tacos and barbeque away from home.

Everyone thinks of Austin when you say Texas, but as a born and raised native, I have to say Houston is where the rich diversity and culture really is. We have authentic cuisines from all over, ranging from traditional Texas fare or award-winning authentic Mexican, to upscale omakase, and everything in between, including a plethora of authentic Vietnamese food, as Houston was a major resettling site for refugees after the war (I recommend Mais or Huynh’s for noodles and soups and Roostar for banh mi). Want a bison burger in a shack under the Houston freeway? Bubba’s is your place. You can go two-stepping at Wild West or hit Barbarella for 80s night (note: be in the mood to get weird). In Houston, there’s something for everyone.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL: Houston is pretty much sunny all year long, other than the occasional rainstorm and flash flood during hurricane season. If you’re looking for a sunny escape but can’t stand 100% humidity and heat, shoot to visit Houston during the “winter” months or the spring! If you’d like to experience the biggest rodeo in the world, go in March for the Houston Rodeo – there is a concert (not always country!) every night and everything else you’d expect including fair rides and games, deep fried foods you never knew you needed (ever had deep fried cheesecake on a stick?), and competitive bull riding. I personally go for the mutton busting.

WHERE TO STAY: Anywhere inside the loop. Staying within the loop will give you quick access to the areas in town you’ll want to see – Museum District, Downtown, Montrose, Uptown/Galleria, Highland Village, the Heights. If you’re willing to spend a little more, they say Beyoncé and Jay-Z like to stay at Hotel Zaza in the Museum District when they’re back in B’s hometown. Alternatively, you could opt for an Airbnb in the Montrose area – it’s artsy and hip with a plethora of great coffeeshops and restaurants. This is also where Common Bond is, and regardless of where you stay you MUST go for their pastries. I never leave town without having at least one pistachio croissant. Their chocolate chip walnut cookies and kouign amann’s are also great. Actually, you can’t go wrong – everything they bake is perfect and delicious.

friday.

You can’t go to Texas without experiencing authentic Tex-Mex. Drop your bags, throw on something that has a little give, and head to the Original Ninfa’s on Navigation. There are other locations, but don’t go to them – this original Ninfa’s is unilaterally acknowledged by locals as the quintessential Houston Tex-Mex experience. You’ll get free chips and salsa, of course, but don’t be afraid to order some guac or chile con queso for the table – you won’t regret it. You can’t go wrong with traditional fare – tamales, enchiladas – but fajitas are definitely the way to go. And, of course, a pitcher or two of their margaritas. You can also check out Irma’s if you’re looking for a more hole in the wall feeling. It’s a family restaurant and they change the menu every day. Some locals will probably push for Escalante’s or El Tiempo or maybe even Chuy’s but really, you can’t go wrong.

After dinner, hop in an Uber and head downtown to the bars wash down the food with a cocktail or a beer. Some popular spots are The Pastry War – a vibrant, colorful space serving tequila and mezcal drinks, La Carafe – a wine bar located inside the oldest commercial building in Houston (that’s supposed to be haunted by ghosts?), Sunny’s if you need jello shots and want to take home a souvenir koozie (they’re free!), Dean’s Downtown if you’re in search of ambiance and old fashioned cocktails, or Bovine & Barley for beer on tap and a really cool HTX backdrop for a gram-worthy pic. And if you’re feeling bold or the need to dance, head to Boots n Shoots, but don’t say I didn’t warn you.

saturday.

There are ENDLESS brunch options in Houston and they are all so different, so it depends on your mood where you should go. Adair Kitchen is a great spot, all of their brunch items are delicious, but their Superfoods Bowl is a personal favorite, if you want something a little healthier but still delicious to balance out all the cheese you consumed at Tex-Mex. I also like their juices. Pondicheri is also a favorite for Indian-inspired brunch and be sure to check out their bakeshop upstairs! They use unique flavors, and everything is delicious. If you’re looking for something quieter and quicker, Blacksmith’s biscuits are a personal favorite paired with great coffee, or you could pick up sausage and cheese kolaches (another Texas tradition) and glazed donuts from Shipley’s – a Houston staple (many, many locations). Ask for fresh glazed donuts and get AT LEAST half a dozen – you won’t regret it and you’ll start asking “Krispy who?” This could also be a great time to check out Common Bond for their pastries and coffee. Their food menu is also good, in part due to their great bread.

After brunch, I highly recommend heading over to Rice University to walk around the campus. The architecture is gorgeous – the archways and lamps will make you feel like you’re walking through Hogwarts, especially in the evening. Even in the daytime, the huge sweeping trees and students sitting on hammocks and swings will make you feel like you stepped into a storybook about college. Rice Village is also a nice area to explore for dessert, shopping, or a beer outside. Hermann Park right across the street is nice to walk around, as is Discovery Green. While you’re in the area, if you’re in the mood for culture, check out the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH). They always have new exhibits and installations worth checking out.

If you prefer your art in the form of fashion, drive over to the Galleria for some shopping. People travel to Houston to go to the Galleria. A mall doesn’t begin to cover what it is – it’s huge and has any store or label you could think of, and also has good restaurants inside and in the area (my pick is the new Yauatcha for delicious dim sum). Bonus: If you go during the Christmas season, there is a Texas-sized (think floor to second-story ceiling) Christmas tree in the middle of the ice-skating rink (and apparently skating rinks in malls is a Texas-specific phenomenon?) Be sure to check out the Waterwall Park across the street while you’re there – it’s a 64-foot tall fountain that circulates 11,000 gallons of water every minute. Just to remind people that everything truly is bigger in Texas.

You’ve probably had enough to eat, but you are on vacation after all. You absolutely must go to West Alabama Ice House for an afternoon pick-me-up. Park your car and cross the street to the little white truck on the corner in front of the convenience store for Tacos Tierra Caliente. This place is the real deal and what I miss the most. Get them on corn, say yes to cilantro and onions, and go easy on the hot sauces, they’re REALLY hot. And I’d get at least three, one of which should be an al pastor. After you get your white paper bag of tacos, walk back across the street to West Alabama, get yourself some Texas beers (Lonestar or Shiner) and eat those tacos. At some point someone will probably walk around selling tamales, and if you have room, porque no los dos?

You probably haven’t seen the Heights yet, so I’d recommend grabbing dinner there. Coltivare is a favorite for Italian with outdoor garden seating, as well as Local Foods (multiple locations) which is a casual farm-to-table spot – my favorite is the crunchy chicken sandwich, the pretzel bun it comes on is perfect. You can also order any sandwich as a salad! Good Dog is another great casual spot for creative and delicious hot dogs. If you need authentic Cajun, Gumbo Jeaux’s is a local, no-frills spot with large servings. Fat Cat Creamery for dessert.

I would then check out some of the artsy-hipster Montrose bars – Anvil, Poison Girl, Boheme, AvantGarden. Just walk along that street and you’ll see people wandering in and out of bars. They’re laid-back with outdoor patio seating. If you need drunk food, or just another excuse to eat, go to House of Pies, another Houston staple. Really good diner food and amazing pies in every flavor.

sunday.

Sunday is for church and brunch. If you’re not religious but could use a spiritual experience, go to the Breakfast Klub. Actually, this is not an option you must go to the Breakfast Klub, and you must get their life-changing chicken and waffles. Not their omelet, not their French toast. Chicken and waffles. Added bonus: I believe they sometimes have live jazz on Sunday mornings and there’s also an Obama mural outside. And a recently added Michelle mural as well. The line will probably be long, but it actually goes really quickly, so have a little faith. Or go on a different day. Regardless, I promise it will be worth it. If you really can’t be bothered, cross the street to Tacos a Go Go for the best quesadillas. Really though, get the chicken and waffles. Alternatively, another good option for Southern brunch is Max’s Wine Dive. Think fried chicken, grits, biscuits, mac ‘n cheese. I cried a little bit when I had their Crème Brûlée French toast.

At this point you’ve probably eaten enough, so I would just drive around town. Highland Village is a nice area to walk around which is also right by the River Oaks area, where you could catch a movie at the River Oaks Theatre, a historic movie theatre that opened in the 1930s. Driving past some of the homes in this area will probably make you wonder why you’re paying so much for so little somewhere else…

Alternatively, if it’s baseball season, I would head to Minute Maid Park for an Astros game. When it’s nice out, they open the roof, but if you’re not from Houston that’s probably the norm for you. Yes, we have a roof that closes, and after this weekend in Houston you’ll probably understand why. Go on a hot and/or rainy day and enjoy that beer in an AC-blasted stadium. Not into sports, much more into science? I would go to NASA Johnson Space Center. It’s a bit of a drive, but at least you’ll finally understand “Houston, we have a problem.

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