Sumatra is the perfect place to visit if you have already been to Southeast Asia before and want to spend the majority of your time exploring nature. It is full of orangutans, waterfalls, and some of the kindest people that you will ever meet. It doesn’t seem like there are a lot of travelers that visit Sumatra, so if you are comfortable being off the beaten path, you should add Sumatra to your list.
BEST TIME TO VISIT: We traveled through Sumatra during September. It was a quiet time of year to visit, but it was outside the rainy season, and was a great temperature. If you plan on motorbiking like us, I think September would be the perfect time to visit.
NOTE ON MOTORBIKING: Motorbiking Sumatra is EXHAUSTING, and leads to a lot of long days. Traffic is stressful and road conditions are unpredictable. Definitely do not do it unless you have experience with a motorbike. However, if you want to meet more locals, enjoy more of the scenery, and have more flexibility, it is the way to go.
medan.
We flew into Medan and picked up our motorbikes here. If you want the contact information for where we picked up motorbikes, feel free to contact us. There isn’t much to see in Medan, so just use it as a stopping point for travel as needed.
lake toba.
Lake Toba is STUNNING. As the largest volcanic lake in the world, it is an absolute must for any trip to Sumatra. It was the Bali of the 1980s, but is rarely traveled to now. Toba feels like it should be crowded because of the tourist infrastructure, but is kind of a ghost town. If you add it to your list, you will feel like you discovered a hidden hippie paradise, that the rest of the world has yet to see.
We stayed at Zoe’s Paradise Waterfront Hotel in Tuktuk. The rooms were simple, but they had a nice pool, good breakfast, and beautiful views. They even gave us a traditional gift as a thank-you for staying with them.
We can’t provide a set itinerary for Lake Toba because the best thing to do is to just wander around and see what you discover. Some of our favorite spots that we ate were Jenny’s Restaurant (a backpacker go-to), Bamboo’s Cafe(a hippy haven with great views), and Bagus Bay (delicious food, live music, and a pool table).
Our favorite thing to do was to motorbike around the lake. Any place you stay will have them available for rent. There can be some sharp turns and bad traffic, so if you aren’t a confident driver, you should opt to drive with someone who is. We loved Sipiso Piso too (and linked a great guide for the falls). If you want to hike down to the bottom, plan to spend an entire afternoon there. After a long day of driving, get a massage at Bagus Bay. If you have extra time, a visit to King’s Tomb is also an interesting excursion.
berastagi.
Berastagi is a great stop for a volcano trek. We stayed at Nachelle’s Homestay. The rooms are super simple, but Nachelle is AMAZING. She will write out the best spots to eat and how to pronounce essential phrases (not spicy was particularly helpful!) If you arrive in the evening, go next door to the Night Market. Ask her to point you towards the peanut butter and jelly pancake people, because I still dream about that treat! It is a Berastagi specialty.
In the morning, have breakfast at your homestay or Biji Hitam Coffee Shop. We visited this cafe multiple times, because it has fantastic coffee. Once you’re caffeinated, venture to Mount Sibayak to hike up the volcano. The hike took us about 45 minutes from the parking area to get to the top. Once you’re there, you’re going to feel like you’re on the moon! It is INCREDIBLE. Words don’t do it justice, but do not miss Mount Sibayak.
If it isn’t too late, head to the hot springs. Note, if you are female, you need to have a one piece swimsuit. Most women will have their arms and legs covered, so you may just want to roll up your pants and set your feet in the water.
For dinner, ask Nachelle to show you her favorite BBQ pork place. It was UNREAL. Make sure you get there early enough, because they will close when they run out of pork.
ketambe.
The next day, start your journey to Gunung Leuser National Park to see the orangutans! On your way out of town, stop at Taman Alam Lumbini. It is a beautiful golden Buddhist temple. Feel free to go inside. Then, you will travel through Aceh. Aceh is under Sharia law, so make sure you dress respectfully as you travel.
Once you arrive in Ketambe, we recommend doing a 2 day, 1 night orangutan trek. We saw orangutans on both days, and sleeping in the jungle for one night was enough for us. The majority of people travel longer, but we thought 2 days, 1 night was the way to go. If you would like to know who we trekked with, feel free to contact us.
Before and after your trek, stay at Thousand Hills.It is definitely the best option for staying in a nice and clean place while in Ketambe (trust us–we had a horrible experience at another spot).
If you have any questions at all about traveling through Sumatra or Indonesia, we’d love to hear from you!