RANA’S GUIDE: ISTANBUL

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You can get a downloadable map of this itinerary here.

Rana was born and raised in Istanbul, Turkey. She is currently a lawyer based out of Brooklyn. During high school and college, she spend almost all her summers in different places abroad for different purposes. She loves watching films and going to concerts.

day 1.

Start your day in Sultanahmet, also known as part of the Historical Peninsula of the city. Hagia Sophia – former church under the Byzantines, former mosque under the Ottomans and currently a museum, with its provocative history, will give you a sense of the unsettled nature of Istanbul sliding between the orient and the occident. Just in front of it you will see the Blue Mosque, the most BEAUTIFUL mosque of the 3,400(ish) mosques of Istanbul, with its unusual 6 minarets as opposed to the usual 2-4, and its blue tile work ornamenting its interior walls. Last place to visit before lunch is the Basilica Cistern, built in the 6th century.

Seyhmuz Kebap is a lunch spot for local shop-owners in the Grand Bazaar that many tourists would likely miss. Owners who are from the Southeastern city of Mardin have their own two different versions of kebap which they typically serve with salads and rice. Don’t forget to have your Turkish tea after you finish eating. Almost next door, Grand Bazaar is a massive indoors souk with lots of jewelry, pottery, fur, shoes, and Turkish sweets and delight stores. Make sure you don’t buy anything without bargaining. It’s hard to feel hungry in Istanbul but next destination is the Spice Bazaar. On your way, you may want to stop at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi and watch how fast coffee grinders work to grind the INFAMOUSLY heavy Turkish coffee and the impatient crowd trying to buy fresh Turkish coffee. If you’re one of those who can’t resist desert, Istanbul has so much to offer to you. A minute away, Tatlici Safa is a popular kunefe and baklava location.

After you exit Spice Bazaar, you’ll realize that you made your way towards the Bosphorus. If you still have some space, try to taste the fish sandwich in Eminonu Meydani, a highly celebrated street food. Taking the Galata Bridge, you’ll make your way to the relatively more modern newly gentrified area of Karakoy. Have dinner in Karakoy Lokantasi, a canonical fish restaurant with its blue ceramics and lots of DELICIOUS mezzes.

day 2.

Start your day by enjoying the ‘Turkish breakfast’ with a view in Mangerie, Bebek.  In the same coastline, next is Sakip Sabanci Museum, with its INCREDIBLE location facing the Bosphorus. After checking the exhibitions, have a coffee at the museum’s restaurant. If it’s a sunny day, you may walk along the sea shore as long as you can, meanwhile you will be passing by multiple different neighborhoods starting from Emirgan moving on to Rumeli Hisari, Bebek, Arnavutkoy, and Kurucesme. Finally, you’ll reach Ortakoy, where tens of local food vendors selling EXACTLY the same baked potato with multiple ingredients you add in it will try to convince you to buy it from them. If you would like to give a try to a classic middle eastern experience, you may order a shisha and smoke as you view the Bosphorus and the reflection of the divine looking Ortakoy Mosque on the sea even on a cloudy day.

Turkish baths play a major role in the Turkish culture, the Turkish bath experience in the Kilicali Pasa Hamami is once in a lifetime experience that you SHOULDN’T MISS. When you’re done, you’ll be feeling ready to explore the more hipster area of the city. Start walking towards Tophane to Cukurcuma, and then to Cihangir. While wandering in the streets you’ll see small boutiques selling antiques and vintage clothes as well as lots of third wave coffee shops.

Sunset is the best time to take the ferry between any two locations on Bosphorus. Sitting outside, you’ll be able to see the famous seagulls close-up. For dinner, try Agora Meyhanesi 1890 in Balat, for experiencing the ‘meyhane’ concept with a modern touch. Give Raki a try as well, it’s definitely an acquired taste. If you still have energy, check out Monkey Bar, a local rooftop bar in Taksim.

day 3.

Start your day in the Kadikoy neighborhood in the Asian side of Istanbul. After walking around the market, make your way towards Moda for a quieter time. Stop for lunch at Ciya Sofrasi, the famous restaurant of chef Musa Dagdeviren who was on one episode of Chef’s Table recently. His recipes have combined different types of food and cooking styles all over Turkey. It’s not ideal to have food over food, but that’s what happens when you have a short time in Istanbul. Try the mussels stuffed with rice on the streets of Kadikoy.

For a good view of the city, take the ferry back to the European side and enjoy the sunset while having a drink on this local rooftop bar, Balkon. Taksim Square and Istiklal Street are considered to be the center of the city, it’s worth walking around. As you move towards Sishane from Taksim Square, you’ll start seeing the famous Galata Tower. Walk down towards the tower to see it BEAUTIFULLY illuminated.

Duble Meze at Pera is a great choice for an upscale but unique Turkish experience for dinner, people will start dancing to 90’s Turkish pop music soon after they stop eating. You may continue the night at a small and packed bar named Baylo by just walking for 5 minutes afterwards.

day 4.

For a chill last day, it’s ideal to visit Nisantasi and walk around the streets. You should stop and have food at Saray Muhallebicisi, for your last authentic Turkish food. Don’t forget to buy ‘simit’, the local version of bagel, from a street vendor. Unless you’re too tired, take a cab to check a newly opened modern art gallery named Pilevneli and have a coffee at Petra, a trendy coffee shop in a short walking distance.

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